Electric Instructions
Thanks for purchasing your throttle
control from #1 Stop Products. Please read the enclosed instructions
first before attempting installation. If you have any questions,
please feel free to contact us.
INSTALLATION
- Remove carburetor
- install longer studs (NOTE: If a
spacer was not run under carb, longer studs are required. They may
be made from threaded rod or purchased from your speed shop or from
your #1 Stop Products Dealer.)
- Install an open plenum style carb
gasket on manifold.
- Install #1 Stop on manifold.
Solenoid should be opposite side of carb throttle linkage. Note:
Dominator stops can be mounted on either side. Check clearance on
linkages on both Std. Holley and Dominators.
- Install carburetor. Note: Be sure
to use a 4 hole carb gasket between carburetor and #1 Stop. An open
plenum gasket will allow the fuel mixture to move from hole to hole
and cause turbulence. This will cause inconsistency when the stop is
in use.
- Install fuel lines on carburetor.
DO NOT allow fuel lines to rest or touch the solenoid or bracket.
This will cause the solenoid to bind. It can cause the stop to work
erratically and possibly blow the fuse or burn up the solenoid (see
warning label on solenoid).
- Wiring: use 10 GA wire on all
circuits.
"High Gear Stop" wiring
- Use heavy duty switch to mount
on your shifter for a high gear stop. For suggested wiring for
"High Gear Stop" See wiring diagram H.G. (Figure 3).
- Mount the enclosed switch on
your shifter so when you the shifter is in low gear the switch is
"made". (A bracket to mount your switch on a quarter stick
shifter is available from #1 Stop Products. Mount enclosed fuse
bracket in a convenient location.
When wiring, please try and follow
these suggestions for best results.
- Use good 12 volt power source. Do
not take power at a point that has already several other uses (fuel
pumps, fans, etc)
- Try and keep wire lengths short
and make sure all connectiosn are secure and properly insulated.
- If you install an override witch
(a 30 amp switch is available from your #1 Stop Dealer) make sure
it is a quality switch.
- Make sure you have a good ground
(do not ground to aluminum interiors).
- An On-Off switch (optional) may
be used to turn off throttle stop when it is not used (for bracket
racing) and stop knob can be screwed in to hold stop open.
- Do not use a fuse larger than 10
amp "slow blow" fuse (Buss #10 MDL)
After wiring, before testing equipment,
open stop manually making sure that nothing interferes with the
Solenoid, linkage or blades. The solenoid must be able to seat
properly or it will not disconnect the high force coil and may cause
the fuse to "blow" or damage the solenoid.
Note: Your #1 Stop Throttle Stop is
equipped with an "internally" switched duel coil DC solenoid. In
the installation of "internally switched" duel coil solenoids it
is CRITICAL that the plunger be allowed to travel to its FULLY SEATED
POSITION. This will permit the plunger to automatically open the
switch to the high current coil winding eliminating the chance of oil
BURNOUT!
CAUTION!!! Solenoid adjustment is
CRITICAL. Coil burnout will occur within 2 minutes if "internal
switch" is not opened to disconnect the high current winding. If in
doubt, contact factory for further instructions.
CURCUIT PROTECTION!!! A slow blow fuse
should be wired "in line" with the solenoid to protect it from
burnout if a jammed linkage or restricted should occur. The following
fuse size is recommended.
BUSS FUSE: MDL 10 FOR 12 VDC systems
One last time manually move linkage
through it proper movement and visually inspect for restrictions.
Energize the solenoid, check for proper stroke and operation. After
30 seconds, feel the solenoid, if excess heat is felt on the
solenoid, recheck solenoid adjustment.
TIMER INSTALLATIONS
Make sure that the timer you are using
is capable of handling the amperage required. It is recommended that
a relay (30 amp. Min.) be used on timer installations. A bosch 30 Amp
Relay is a good choice. Wire per diagram on side of relay.
HELPFUL HINTS
High Gear Stop
This type of stop is triggered off the
shifter (Stop open in low gear, closed in high gear). To quickly dial
the car in when limited time trials are available and no previous
testing is done (if possible try and dial the car in ahead of a
points meet or national event).
- Turn Stop knob so that Stop is
full open when solenoid is activated.
- Turn Stop knob 10 full turns out
and lock nut (always record Stop position or every run along with
results)
- Make a run and record time and
adjust using .01 per mark to run what you want to run and run the
second time trial. EXAMPLE: S/G 1st run at 10 turns, car
runs 9.80. On the second run, try to run 9.92 to 9.95 using .01.
Estimate per mark 9.93 - 9.80 = .13 or 13 marks on adjustment knob.
To slow car down adjustment know moves away from cam. The second run
will then tell how close the .01 estimate is. Your actual adjustment
may be from .005 per mark to .03 per mark. Make changes again to
dial the car in on the third run. When adjusting this Stop, remember
that there are 3 significant factors that affect a perfectly running
race car:
- 60 ft. time. Any change here
affects your total E.T. On a "high gear" type stop. The stop
does not affect the 60 ft. time. It is extremely important to be
consistent here.
- Weather (air quality). We know
that our racer will go quicker in cool air than it will in the heat
of the day. Any step to record air quality and how it affects your
car will help you dial-in more accurately. (Wind is also a weather
factor that affects your car)
- Your T.S. Also affects your E.T.
Remember, if you set your stop .03 slower and your 60 ft. speeds up
.04 and weather is .01 faster, you will go .02 faster than the
previous run even though you set the throttle stop to run slower.
TIMERS: S/C S/G S/ST
The most popular timer applications!
Use a small amount of time in the first timer (.010 – 0.30 to allow
full throttle for reaction time) then an adjustable period of time
"on the Stop" (stop closed). Then open for a MPH charge. This has
several advantages:
- By going on the Stop early in the
run may help keep the car hooked up on a marginal race track.
- A "slow" 60 ft. may fool your
opponent into thinking your reaction time was slower than it
actually was.
- By slowing the car down early in
the run, you tend to keep most of the competition in front of you so
you can view him and the finish line at all times (he should then
have to look back to see you and take his eyes off the finish line)
- By having a higher MPH than most
of your competition, it makes it hard for your competitor to judge
your car.
- A correctly set up T.S. Setting
and timer application is very accurate and lends itself to a
throttle stop weather computer. (Caution: when you set up your
throttle stop and timer, make sure that you:
- Do not have too much throttle
stop restriction that your timer will open you up before your 60
ft. time. Example: If your first timer is 0.30 seconds and your
second timer is 1.00 seconds and your 60 ft. is 1.45, you need to
open your stop (Use less turns of T.S.)
- Make sure when you adjust your
2nd timer to adjust your E.T., that the total range of
your adjustment will always stay on the same side of your shift
point (ie always opens before your shift or always opens after your
shift). If you are opening before your shift point and may get
close, simply put more restriction (more turns) in your throttle
stop. Example: A good rule of thumb on a S/ST, S/G and S/C car with
suspension is 0.30 sec. In the first timer, 2.00 sec. In the second
timer and 12 turns in throttle stop.
- When initially setting up your
Stop Timer combination, try to anticipate different conditions that
you will encounter during the course of the season so that you can
pre-test these conditions.
- At points races and national
events, make runs with an eye on the weather and track conditions
that will prevail on race day.